Perhaps other dimmers are compensating for the bulbs ineffective dim capability by measuring voltage/current? Something that is apparently absent in the 200/300 series switches. I'm unfortunately not smart enough, or there aren't enough hours in my day, to quantify if the problem is actually the bulb, the dimmer, or the ramp rate math is off - and I have experimented with all 3. It takes no less than 3 tries, and some swear words for him to get it. For whatever reason my father seems to like lights on but at 10% dim, as stupid as I find this, it's a constant source or frustration to watch him hold the paddle up or down to get to that 10%. The dimmable bulbs I've encountered that are actually fine strips of LEDs in series, designed to mimic the filament of old incandescent bulbs, seem to be the best bet, but after 50% the ramp rate seems to fall off too quickly. It's is frustrating as a consumer, or even an installer, to have to buy and test several LED dimmable bulbs before finding one that is "compatible" especially in a day and age when a bulb you buy at home depot one week, is seemingly no longer available the next, or in some cases even the same bulb when looking and the external packaging, is actually a different bulb in the box and the internal driver circuit is different - I don't know if this problem is exacerbated by shipping/logistics delays, or parts availability, or safety/regulatory changes imposed (especially since nobody seems to be enforcing UL certification and can just slap that mark on anything) but the struggle is real.Īt 50% dim or below, the ramp rate is overly sensitive. Use case: bathroom, these won't be dimmed, but I do want status of things before I go to bed after leave the master bathroom, for example is garage left open (red LED) etc.Īt 100% bright (even when the 300 series switch is configured as on/off) the power output (as measured by a DVM) is "unstable" - this leads some LED bulbs to flicker wildly, even those that are labeled "dimmable" on their packaging. Use case: garage lights, these will never be dimmed, I'm not creating a mood in there, but I do want status of things before I've left the house, for example is a door/window open (red LED), water tap left open (blue LED), soldering iron left on (purple LED) etc. In almost every implementation I'd prefer a relay switch with 7 status LEDs over the currently available 200/300 series switch. Since these switches are expensive, I choose to use them in locations where the LED status indicators are necessary, and not just because I need a dimmer. I'd just like to 2nd that the dimming performance of the 200/300 leaves me a bit underwhelmed. And based on my lab testing of various Z-wave dimmers, HST is just basing their dimmer on an OEM platform that's shared with at least one other vendor (their dimmer can do no-neutral and sucks on the low-end range also). While it might solve flickering problems for some dimmer and bulb combinations, it won't solve poor linearity or range for their design. I too am an EE and a dummy load is just a crutch for a poor design to begin with. Might be worth it depending on how many you want and the free shipping if you have prime. And on top of it, it's only 4 1/2 bucks! Or if you really want to buy Bezos a new yacht you can get it for $10 bucks on Amazon. So, I did some research and voila! Luton makes the "Lutron LUT-MLC' which is nothing but a dummy load to place resistance on the line, especially with LED or low wattage resistive (filament) loads. Notice I didn't call the WX300 an older style dimmer but the 16% limit is just not acceptable in today's connected world, IMHO. So I had some spare time hiding from the wife and I designed a dummy load that was so simple I thought that someone else should have done it by now to adapt older style dimmers. Please send us an email to reference Case #7326762, and we will continue troubleshooting via email.While I don't have one of these, the old fashioned EE in me still thought there just has to be a way. We would like to get some more details about your application in order to come up with a potential cause. What you experienced is definitely not typical, especially because you had the LUT-MLCs installed. In any case, everything was back to normal once it was cycled OFF/OFF. (Didn't pay much attention to that at the time.). When the LED was flashing Red, I believe I was not able to control it or get status on it. First time I have seen that.to clear it I just cycled the switch ON/OFF once by hand and it was OK. All of my other devices were OK.about 90 dimmers and pico remotes. When I returned from a trip recently I noticed that on at least 10 of these devices the front LED was flashing red.
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